The two parties must fill out a bill of sale, indicating what aircraft is being sold, the
buyer’s and seller’s information, and the price. You can use FAA Form 8050-2,
“Aircraft Bill of Sale,” or create your own bill of sale.
In addition, the seller must remove the existing aircraft registration from the aircraft. He or
she will sign and date the back, and will typically check boxes A and F to indicate that the
registration is canceled and ownership transferred, as well as fill out the name and address of
the purchaser. The seller also must sign the bottom of the old registration, and then send it
to the FAA, releasing his or her registration of the airplane.
The buyer must fill out FAA Form 8050-1, “Aircraft Registration Application,” in order to apply
for a new registration in his or her name. This is a two-part carbon copy form, and the pink
copy of the form is to be torn off and placed in the aircraft as the buyer’s new temporary
registration. You can obtain the 8050-1 form from AOPA, your local flight standards district
office, or at many airports. Finally, the buyer should include a check or money order for $5
made payable to the FAA to be included in the paperwork submission (including the bill of sale
and the registration application).
For a detailed explanation of the process, check out AOPA’s
You also can use
AIC Title Services if you require help with title searches and escrow services.
Got a question for our aviation services staff? The AOPA Pilot Information Center is a service
available to all members as part of the annual dues. Call 800/USA-AOPA (800/872-2672), or email
If there's something you'd like to see on the list, or if you have any comment,
suggestions or would like to contribute, please feel free to email
the Webmaster. The more info we make available, the more valuable and
well maintained the fleet of 1-26's becomes!
- SN026 Restoration by Andy Kecskes
- SN038 Restoration by Jim Phoenix
- SN686 Restoration by Jim Phoenix
- SN116 Turbine Schweizer 1-26 Project
- From: Charles Shaw (038)
Making a 1-26 Rear Canopy Radio Antenna worked out pretty neat
and easy with help from Jerry Kaufman.
Music wire as large a diameter as will mate with Panel Mount Double Female
F-connector (wire from hobby shop)
F Connector Plug for RG-6 (RS 278-223)
Short piece of solid dielectric removed from RG-8M for insulator around music
wire through the F-connector
Panel Mount Double Female F-connector with mating nut (such as from RS 15-2041)
Adapter--BNC Receptacle to F Plug (RS 278-256)
RG-58 type cable with BNC Plug at antenna end and to fit radio at the other
2 crimp-on lugs appropriate to diameter of F-connector and ground terminal,
joined by a short, heavy wire
Attach empty F-Plug to Panel Mount F-connector. Press music wire through
F-connector to fully mate into the Panel Mount. Measure and cut wire for total
length needed for antenna. Remove wire. Slip piece of dielectric insulation
from RG-8M into F-connector; insert wire through insulation; epoxy wire and
insulation into F-connector after checking for continuity from wire through
Install Panel Mount into appropriate diameter hole in rear canopy. Attach
ground lugs under mounting nut and to ground bolt. Check for good continuity
between F-connector and canopy frame. I also solder these crimp connectors.
[Ground lugs and wire can be eliminated if good ground continuity can be
assured through Double Female Panel Mount Connector to canopy frame. Paint is
Antenna can be removed by unscrewing external F-connector. Cable can be removed
by detaching cable at BNC plug or F-adapter from Double Female mount.
Use another short piece of RG-8M insulation glued to end of antenna wire to
prevent injury from sharp wire end.
- From: Monroe S. David
Here are PDF’s of the pattern I used to fabricate the Stick Boot in the
LegalEagle this year.
Boot Design Stick
- From: Kevin Renshaw
I have made both tailcones and nosecones. Here is the method I
used to make the tailcone that is on 217:
Get a block of blue styrofoam (2 lb/cu ft) at least the size of the tailcone.
This is the kind that homebuilders use for Long-Ezes, and other homebuilt glass
ships. You can get it from Aircraft Spruce or from many insulation suppliers
(look in the yellow pages under “plastic foam”).
Use the old tailcone to trace the outline on the foam. Cut the profile to shape
using a band saw (or you can use a bread knife if you don’t have a band saw!)
Hold it up against the back of the fuselage tube frame and trace the mating
shape from the last tube station.
Carve and sand the sides of the block to shape. The Blue Styrofoam can be
shaped with coarse sandpaper or woor rasp tools.
Glass the resulting shape using EPOXY resin. Do not use polyester resin on blue
foam! it attacks the foam instantly.
When the glass is cured, pour acetone or lacquer thinner into the foam.
The foam will turn into blue sludge that you can scrape out. You know have a
nice hollow fiberglass tailcone. Finish and paint. Drill the holes for the six
bolts that attach it to the fuselage.
That’t the short form. It really only involves about 3 or 4 hours of work.
- From: Brian Case
I have a mold for the lower fiberglass nose fairing for a 1-26B or C.
It may also work Standard or A models as Well. It fits fair but is a bit tight
around the tow hook.
- From: Jim Phoenix (686)
I started a website on the restoration of SN686. I’m new to this
and it’s kind of slow right now, so I’m going to work on speeding it up a bit
and adding more detail and pictures.
It’s here: http://www.jimphoenix.com
Send me an email if you have suggestions, questions or would like me to add
detail on something. Many thanks to everyone in the 1-26 Association for all
the help and advice received so far, it’s been a great help!
- From: Bob Spielman
I talked to MARY BACKUS at Schweizer today and she said that Schweizer is out
of the glider parts business and that Les Schweizer has all the remaining
inventory of glider parts.
I called Les this evening and he has an 18 wheeler full of parts and that they
are not sorted out yet. He was in on the design of the 1-35, some 1-26 mods,
and some 2-33 mods. If you need a part you can email him at:
and if you want some technical advise you call him at: 607-594-3329 after 7:00
pm in the evening EST. If you need a part it would be good to have the part
number. Some of the sailplane manuals have a parts list - mine doesn't. He also
has a lot of the tooling needed to produce parts but that equipment is not set
I need a 1-26 parts list and a 1-36 parts list if anyone knows where I can get
- From: Jim Phoenix
Desser tire (http://www.desser.com/tailwheel.html),
carries the 4.00x4 tire and tube that is used on the 1-26, $55.00
for both (09/13/05).
- From: George Powell
For those of you who are interested, here are some
pictures of the battery box I use in #029. Garry Dickson built it
for me several years ago and it fits like a glove behind the seat. The design
is a modified version of the rig Gary Swift describes below.
Gary's description: Each end of the battery rack had an aluminum
fitting that allowed the rack to "hang" suspended between two lateral tubing
members in the fuselage at the aft end of the seat pan. Each of the two end
fittings had two mounting "hooks" at the top, that allowed the battery to hang
between the fuselage members. One of the two hooks on each end fitting included
a pip pin that fit through a hole in the hook and through a drilled hole in the
fuselage member. Pretty secure.
- From: Charles Shaw (196)
Atricle on SEALS FOR YOUR 1-26A-B-C, CANOPY, WHEEL BRAKE, AND
Just when you think that what you’ve written pretty well covers all the bases
on this subject, someone points out a problem that you’ve failed to mention. So
here goes another time.
James, here in Hobbs (ex #112, ex #032, now #243), was telling me about some
noises he had in his current 1-26. As he described it, it was clearly very
close to the pilots head, and we knew that he had already sealed the canopies
and the joint between the two canopies --plus he is using plugs in the holes on
each side where they join. Then it dawned on us, he hadn’t sealed the glass
into the canopy frames. These can be amazingly noisy spots! Apparently the
standard way of mating the glass to the canopy frames was to use a strip of ¾”
electrical tape on the inside of the metal frame for the glass to contact.
That’s fine; but by itself, it won’t do the job we want.
Here is what I have been doing with the 1-26’s I have owned:
Loosen the multitude of bolts around the edges considerably—enough to get a
small gap all the way around. Using some (preferably) non-hardening glazing
compound or putty, work little balls of the stuff into the gap with your thumb
and fingers. (Kinda like packing an old wheel bearing by hand.) Be certain that
the compound you are using will not attack either the glass or the paintwork
and that it cleans up easily with just water and soft cloths. [Silicone bathtub
stuff not allowed!] Re-tighten the bolts. Don’t over-tighten them because the
glass must be free enough to shift slightly with changes in temperature. It is
really surprising how much difference this can make to the amount of
distracting noise that you must put up with every time you fly.
By the way, when James did this on #243, he found that the bolts were extremely
loose—enough so that there were some very large openings that had been going
unnoticed for a long time. How about your 1-26?
- From: Charles Shaw (196)
Atricle on sealing the wing root with garage-door seal material in
HTML or PDF
- From: Jim Hard
Have obtained some ¾ inch wide h cross-section “#1 rubber channel” from
Aircraft Spruce in Georgia, for sealing the wing root. It
comes in 12 foot lengths so you order two. The cost was $24. My invoice says
that the inventory number is # 591811. Haven’t tried it yet but it looks like
it’ll work fine. Gave up on the garage door seals for the same reason as Kevin
Ford; namely, the seals fell off during a long retrieve. We never did figure
out what the right adhesive was for this application.
Trailers & Rigging
- From: Tom McMullen
I thought that you might be interested in looking at a few pictures of a wing stand that I made for my 1-26E 559. It works well,
although I must admit that it takes a little bit of lining up to get the spar to go in just right. It helps to be able to just
pull the wing out of the trailer that you see in the background, rather than having to lift it up and over the side of a trailer.
There is a note on the prints stating that it is a modification of a one man rig designed by Udo Rumph. The pictures should help
those not accustomed to reading prints. When the prints are opened you need to go to view and rotate counterclockwise.
Tom McMullen, 559
- From: Steve Vihlen
These dollies have worked very well for our group. We have four 1-26s that share Jimbob Slocum's hangar out at his
home/field, Hawks' Nest.
Center Fuselage Dolly
Parts List & Plywood Cutou
There's always a lot going on out there with airplanes passing through and we needed the ability to efficiently stack
and store them out of the way, but to also be able to easily and quickly pull them out and assemble them. Jimbob had
made the first set of dollies and when I got my new 1-26 home, I copied them and made a few improvements and drew up
the plans as I thought there might be an interest in them
The real advantage is having them on castoring wheels. They will work better on a hard surface and one person can easily
maneuver a pair of wings or the fuselage. The fuselage dolly uses a pole (conduit) which slides through the rear drag pin
hole. This is a very stable platform and was great for supporting the fuselage while we worked on the cockpit of my ship.
Another hole or two could be drilled in the upright supports to allow the fuselage to be held at different levels. Since
we stack several 1-26s next to one another, we cut a hole in a couple of tennis balls and slid them onto the ends of the
tube. That way, the rough end of the tube won't poke a hole in a wing that it's placed against. The fuselage dolly is
removed before rigging by lifting the tail and having someone roll the dolly towards the tail and removing it. The dolly
under the skid makes it easier to maneuver and helps in rigging the glider. The skid support has two 1 1/4" metal angles
that are spaced just wide enough to capture the skid and prevent the fuselage from tipping. Cut the 2X4 left side support
so the canopy won't lay on it when opened. Padding should be added to protect the areas that come in contact with the
glider. I used carpet remnants to pad the skid dolly and half inch felt and pipe insulation in the wing dollies.
Also, since I wanted them to look nice and last a long time, I primed and painted them with semi-gloss house paint I had
laying around. So when they get dirty, I can just hose 'em off.
Hope this helps in the enjoyment of your 1-26!
- From: Charles and Jo Shaw
A 1-26 Tow Bar
- From: Lee Jarrard
own a 1-34 and have built a dolly for disassembled winter storage of the
fuselage. It could be resized and work equally well for a 1-26. It is based on
the principle of the over-center motorcycle stand. I put it under the fuselage,
put the tubes into the rear spar carry-thru holes then push down on the
horizontal leg on the right side to lift the fuselage over-center onto the
stand. This leaves the tail wheel about 8 inches off the floor. Pushing down on
the tail lifts the main wheel and allows it to be rolled around on the stand.
See attached pictures. I hope someone finds this useful.
Lee Jarrard (former #192 owner)
- From: Bill Vickland
This is Bill's description of the fuselage dolly
he made for SN 238.
- From: Harry Senn
There are obviously things in this life that are not meant to be done alone,
while others, such as flying a 1-26, were meant to be done strictly solo.
Ordinarily three or more people assemble a 1-26; actually, it is more easily
done with only two (with the aid of a sawed-off broomstick or other prop for
one wingtip). Having done it essentially that way for the better part of 1000
times, on rare occasions my ground crew and I would have been happier if each
had been free to do his own thing. This is the story of my
answer to rigging and assembling a 1-26 all by myself.
- From: Jim Phoenix
Jim Phoenix's web site page on trailers.
- From: Tommy Thompson
My trailer has boat type grease fittings for the wheels. Some excess grease
rotated off the inside of the the wheel and landed on the bottom outboard
sections of the wings. On the advice of another 1-26’r ( Jeff Daye # 039) I
bought an 8 ounce bottle of Ronsonol lighter fuel at Walmart for $1.40. It took
the gease off even after it had been on the wings over four months. Most of it
was dried on too. It did not harm the finish abit. It states on the bottle, “
Excllent for removing Grease, oil stains, tar & labels”.
I think others may benefit from this little tip that was passed on to me!
- From: Bill Vickland
I have a set of plans for the Ranger Trailer.
- From: Irwin Jousma
I have a set of plans for the first Ranger trailer Bob
McNeill designed. I have made modifications to it to make it faster to load and
unload (no tools required) and tow better. If your enquirers want an enclosed
trailer mine is a good one. ( ask Bob Gravance or Ron Schwartz ).
Frequently (and not-so-frequently) Asked Questions
From: Pete Donath
Aircraft Windshield has the MOLD for the WINDSHIELD for the sports canopy...no frames, no
turtledecks (aft canopy half). If somebody needs a replacement windshield, that's where
Bill Vickland has the mold we had made from my aft canopy -- it can be used to make the shell
for the aft canopy, but anybody who wants a sports canopy needs to fabricate frame & bulkheads, etc..
I'm suggesting this because the Globe Swift site does something similar: Jack Nagle stopped
making sliding canopies for the Swift (an STC mod) long ago, but LP Aero Plastics (Bill
Vickland likes them) still makes the plexiglass, just not the frame...oops, the Swift site
( www.saginawwings.com ) doesn't list Nagle's STC anymore, but they used to saying "LP doesn't
have the parts, just the glass..." They might say that in the LP Aero Catalog.
- From: Rick Heis
I would like to set the record straight as to the charging of batteries. There is a
lot of information out there on how to charge batteries. There are some basic principles
that ALL chargeable batteries follow. I have over 35 years in the battery ‘business’ and
hobby. I found a web site that gives you the basics and some details in other parts.
This information is for any devise that has rechargeable batteries, i.e. cell phones,
cordless phones, laptops, ham radio, aviation radios, electric model airplanes/cars/boats, etc.
A LOT has to do with type of battery, age of battery (not the manufacture date), the
type charger, heat/cold, battery cycles, and several other factors. All these factors
create the age of the battery. I have seen brand new batteries go from brand new
condition to its all over and ready to buy another in one week because of the abuse of
A couple basic suggestions:
- Procure the best SMART charger for your devise that can
trickle charge your battery.
- Take care of your batteries as if they were your first born. READ THE MANAFACTURE
GENERAL RULES OF THUMB.....
- Smart chargers will not over charge, can condition the
battery, and keep it in top form until you are ready for it. You can buy smart chargers
for the particular battery (A22) or one charger that works on a lot of different batteries
makes and types and sizes, from “aa” to deep cycle marine (boat) batteries. I prefer
the chargers that can do multi tasking duties with all kinds and types of batteries.
- ALL rechargeable batteries have cycles, you only get so many cycles with each
battery life until its only about 25% useable which means you need a new one.
As just one example... if you charge your battery to full capacity and then use it until
almost empty that is one cycle. OR if you charge your battery
for 1 hour (only 33% say) charge and use it for X amount of time that is one cycle.
OR if you use it and then place it back in the charger say three
times a day that is 3 cycles...as a general rule of thumb...every time you place a devise
in the charger that constitutes a complete battery cycle whether or not you used all the
battery or charge it to full capacity. If the Ni Cad only has approximately 500 cycles
(if you baby the battery) that may mean several years of weekend flying...
IF you don’t abuse the battery. What is abuse... overcharging the battery (instead of
12 hours you charged it 24); leaving the battery in your car for the weekend with temps above
120 degrees (or cold below freezing); fast charging versus trickle charging; only using a
small percentage of the battery life and then recharging are all abuses of the battery.
Check out this web site, there is some useful info on it.
I do not endorse these companies but here are a few battery companies that I purchase batteries from.
- From: Charles & Jo Shaw
My husband and I have owned #196 since 1963 - so we go back a bit. Charles did
his own rendition of seat cushions which not only are very comfortable, but
have been extremely satisfactory for over ten years. Some people complain 1-26s
aren’t very comfortable. The truth of the matter is that most 1-26 CUSHIONS are
His article of how to Whittle You Own Custon 1-26 Cushion
descrides in more the detail process below:
Use layers of one-inch Styrofoam insulation material (metal-sheathed) shaped to
fit the bottom of the glider by using a wood rasp and pocket knife. The top
several layers need to extend forward (6 to 8 inches - or what’s comfortable)on
each side of the stick to support your thighs. Cut and try until it fits both
your seat and the glider’s. Build up on both side and back edges to make it
curved. Use masking tape to hold layers together. When it fits well, tape
together with duct tape and put a thin layer of dense upholstery foam on top -
then cover with heavy-weight cotton fabric (or get your wife to).
- From: Bill Tisdale
I have a great Excel spreadsheet for working out the
weight and balance numbers, complete with station locations.
You just need to weigh it as per the directions,then plug in the numbers. The
first page of the spread sheet, I got from somewhere (must have been SN217).
The second page is for our club ship SN446. If you plug in your empty weight
and empty CG, then play with the pilot max/min weights to adjust CG to
determine your min/max.
Weight and Balance Spreadsheet
- From: Orion Kingman
Finding the Proper length for your antenna.
In this paper I will discus how to find the
proper length for antennas, with glider operations in mind, using 123.30 MHz.
- From: Harry Senn
Here’s some shots comparing a sport canopy to a normal canopy.
- From: George Powell
Here’s a couple of shots of the sport canopy installed on
"Snowflake" (SN 378).
My guess is that the additional drag created by the open canopy (and my rugged
features) diminishes the performance of my 1-26 by 15 to 20 per cent.
However, there are certain positive trade-offs. For example:
You can wear a leather helmet, goggles and Snoopy scarf to impress the girls.
By rolling your 1-26 on its back, flying inverted and gently rocking the wings,
you can clean most of the trash out the cockpit.
You don’t need a radio on downwind. Just lean your head out the cockpit and
shout important messages like: IT’S MILLER TIME!, or: LOOK OUT BELOW!, or: CALL
After you land short, you can wave for help without climbing out of the
I can use my sport canopy interchangeably on my 1-26A (#198) or 1-26B (#378). I
have never tried it on a D or E model and am not sure whether it would fit.
- From: Roger Felton
I have a "factory" sport canopy for my 1-26D #405. I’ve only
flown with it a few times due to the fact I fly from a dirt strip (a moderate
crosswind is required to keep from eating dust). I believe there is little or
no performance loss if flown between minimum sink and best glide speed. I can
say this after thermalling with a B model and a C model for more than an hour.
I am sure there is some loss of performance at higher speeds, but nothing
drastic. I only have had it up to about 70 mph so I can’t comment on anything
over that, but you could generally say that the faster you fly- the more the
performance loss. The wind noise is very moderate at the lower speeds- you can
hear the radio and the audio vario very well. In fact at minimum sink to best
glide speed I would say the wind noise is only slightly more than the regular
canopy. As far as "draftiness" goes I would say it is about equal to the back
seat of a poorly sealed 2-33. There is very little wind in your face- no
goggles are needed unless you have to deal with dust on takeoff. An interesting
note- you can "rumble" the tail by hanging your head or your arm over the side
into the airflow. It does mess your hair up some- just like a convertable.
The sport canopy is in two parts that simply replace the forward canopy and the
aft canopy. They mount in the same way and require no modification to the
glider. The forward sport canopy is made of aluminum over steel tube with a
plexiglass bubble. The plexiglass bubble is curved so that it’s trailing edge
is parallel to the airflow. The aft sport canopy is made of fiberglass with
formed aluminim bulkheads. It has a headrest incorporated into it’s forward
bulkhead, and has a teardrop shaped fairing flowing off the rear of the
headrest. Its kind of hard to describe but imagine the plexiglass bubble of the
forward canopy forming the rounded end of a teardrop shape with the
headrest/fairing of the aft canopy completing the "tail" portion of the
teardrop, blending into the aft canopy.
I have seen another type of homebuilt sport canopy that was one piece,
replacing just the forward canopy. It had a rather upright windscreen, made
from a "wrap" of plexiglass. Supposedly this arrangement rumbles and buffets ,
due partly to the air turbulating off the lip of the windscreen and partly from
the stock aft canopy acting like an airscoop. I would suppose that the
performance of this arrangement isn’t very good, the penalty greatly increasing
- From: Gary Swift
I owned 1-26A #198 for about 3 years in the early 1990s (sold it to active
1-26er George Powell). It came with a factory sport canopy which
I used several times. One of the 1-26ers based at Hemet wanted a sport canopy
for himself and talked "Steve" of Steve’s Soaring Service into making a female
mold of my canopy so he could make a fiberglass duplicate for himself. If Steve
still has the molds, he might be interested in making another canopy for you.
I didn’t fly with the canopy enough to compare performance with other 1-26ers,
but DID notice a higher than normal sink rate and small constant
buffet—probably caused by disturbed airstream hitting the vertical stabilizer.
You would not want to use the sport canopy during a contest or other condition
where you needed max performance. But it is great fun for just messing around!
I even wore a leather flight helmet, goggles, and a white silk scarf for old
tyme flying image.
For parts, try Tom Tappan. He bought ALL of Schweizer’s stock many years ago.
For plans, try the Schweizer factory itself. I wrote to them when I owned #198
and bought a bunch of official 1-26 drawings to have on hand for reference.
- From: George Powell
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