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QUIZ ME!
Here’s a question asked by an AOPA member who contacted thier aviation services staff through the AOPA Pilot Information Center. Test your knowledge.

Question: I am about to sell my aircraft. Can you provide some guidance regarding the required FAA paperwork?

Answer: The FAA must receive four items in order to process the transfer of an aircraft from one entity to another.

The two parties must fill out a bill of sale, indicating what aircraft is being sold, the buyer’s and seller’s information, and the price. You can use FAA Form 8050-2, “Aircraft Bill of Sale,” or create your own bill of sale.

In addition, the seller must remove the existing aircraft registration from the aircraft. He or she will sign and date the back, and will typically check boxes A and F to indicate that the registration is canceled and ownership transferred, as well as fill out the name and address of the purchaser. The seller also must sign the bottom of the old registration, and then send it to the FAA, releasing his or her registration of the airplane.

The buyer must fill out FAA Form 8050-1, “Aircraft Registration Application,” in order to apply for a new registration in his or her name. This is a two-part carbon copy form, and the pink copy of the form is to be torn off and placed in the aircraft as the buyer’s new temporary registration. You can obtain the 8050-1 form from AOPA, your local flight standards district office, or at many airports. Finally, the buyer should include a check or money order for $5 made payable to the FAA to be included in the paperwork submission (including the bill of sale and the registration application).

For a detailed explanation of the process, check out AOPA’s subject report. You also can use AIC Title Services if you require help with title searches and escrow services.

Got a question for our aviation services staff? The AOPA Pilot Information Center is a service available to all members as part of the annual dues. Call 800/USA-AOPA (800/872-2672), or email to pilotassist@aopa.org.






Below are some of the recurring questions that come up with those of us who are interested in the 1-26. This is by no means a complete list. As you can see, some of the catagories are still blank. I'm hoping to tap the creative spirit out there and see what you folks have been up to.

If there's something you'd like to see on the list, or if you have any comment, suggestions or would like to contribute, please feel free to email the Webmaster. The more info we make available, the more valuable and well maintained the fleet of 1-26's becomes!

1-26 3 View Plans


SGS 1-26 Specifications


SGS 1-26(A) SGS 1-26B(C) SGS 1-26D SGS 1-26E
Wingspan 40 ft. 40 ft. 40 ft. 40 ft.
Wing Area 160 sq. ft. 160 sq. ft. 160 sq. ft. 160 sq. ft.
Aspect ratio 10 10 10 10
Length 21 ft. 3 in. 21 ft. 3 in. 21 ft. 6.5 in. 21 ft. 6.5 in.
Height 7 ft. 2.5 in. 7 ft. 2.5 in. 7 ft. 2.5 in. 7 ft. 2.5 in.
Seats Single Single Single Single
Weights and loading
Gross weight 575 lb. 600 lb. 700 lb. 700 lb.
Empty weight 348 lb. 373 lb. 400 lb. 445 lb.
Useful load 227 lb. 227 lb. 300 lb. 255 lb
Wing loading 3.59 lb./sq.ft. 3.75 lb./sq.ft. 4.38 lb./sq.ft. 4.38 lb./sq.ft.
Load factor +5.54, -3.54 +5.54, -3.54 +5.33, -3.31 +5.33, -3.31
Performance (@ max. gross weight)
Best L/D 23:1 @ 48 mph 23:1 @ 49 mph 23:1 @ 53 mph 23:1 @ 53 mph
Minimum sink 2.6 fps @ 36 mph 2.7 fps @ 38 mph 2.9 fps @ 40 mph 2.9 fps @ 40 mph
Vne free flight 104 mph 104 mph 114 mph 114 mph
Vne ground launch 60 mph 60 mph 63 mph 63 mph
Vne aero tow 95 mph 95 mph 114 mph 114 mph
Stall speed (level flight) 28 mph 28 mph 28 mph 28 mph
1-26 3 View Plans 1-26 3 View Plans 1-26 3 View Plans


Aircraft Restoration

SN026 Restoration by Andy Kecskes

SN038 Restoration by Jim Phoenix

SN686 Restoration by Jim Phoenix

SN116 Turbine Schweizer 1-26 Project

From: Charles Shaw (038)

Making a 1-26 Rear Canopy Radio Antenna worked out pretty neat and easy with help from Jerry Kaufman.


Materials:

  • Music wire as large a diameter as will mate with Panel Mount Double Female F-connector (wire from hobby shop)
  • F Connector Plug for RG-6 (RS 278-223)
  • Short piece of solid dielectric removed from RG-8M for insulator around music wire through the F-connector
  • Epoxy Glue
  • Panel Mount Double Female F-connector with mating nut (such as from RS 15-2041)
  • Adapter--BNC Receptacle to F Plug (RS 278-256)
  • RG-58 type cable with BNC Plug at antenna end and to fit radio at the other end.
  • 2 crimp-on lugs appropriate to diameter of F-connector and ground terminal, joined by a short, heavy wire

Instructions:

  • Attach empty F-Plug to Panel Mount F-connector. Press music wire through F-connector to fully mate into the Panel Mount. Measure and cut wire for total length needed for antenna. Remove wire. Slip piece of dielectric insulation from RG-8M into F-connector; insert wire through insulation; epoxy wire and insulation into F-connector after checking for continuity from wire through Panel Mount.


  • Install Panel Mount into appropriate diameter hole in rear canopy. Attach ground lugs under mounting nut and to ground bolt. Check for good continuity between F-connector and canopy frame. I also solder these crimp connectors. [Ground lugs and wire can be eliminated if good ground continuity can be assured through Double Female Panel Mount Connector to canopy frame. Paint is an insulator.]


  • Antenna can be removed by unscrewing external F-connector. Cable can be removed by detaching cable at BNC plug or F-adapter from Double Female mount.


  • Use another short piece of RG-8M insulation glued to end of antenna wire to prevent injury from sharp wire end.

Good Luck!

From: Monroe S. David

Here are PDF’s of the pattern I used to fabricate the Stick Boot in the LegalEagle this year.

PDFStick Boot Design PDFStick Boot Pattern


From: Kevin Renshaw
I have made both tailcones and nosecones. Here is the method I used to make the tailcone that is on 217:

  1. Get a block of blue styrofoam (2 lb/cu ft) at least the size of the tailcone. This is the kind that homebuilders use for Long-Ezes, and other homebuilt glass ships. You can get it from Aircraft Spruce or from many insulation suppliers (look in the yellow pages under “plastic foam”).
  2. Use the old tailcone to trace the outline on the foam. Cut the profile to shape using a band saw (or you can use a bread knife if you don’t have a band saw!) Hold it up against the back of the fuselage tube frame and trace the mating shape from the last tube station.
  3. Carve and sand the sides of the block to shape. The Blue Styrofoam can be shaped with coarse sandpaper or woor rasp tools.
  4. Glass the resulting shape using EPOXY resin. Do not use polyester resin on blue foam! it attacks the foam instantly.
  5. When the glass is cured, pour acetone or lacquer thinner into the foam.

The foam will turn into blue sludge that you can scrape out. You know have a nice hollow fiberglass tailcone. Finish and paint. Drill the holes for the six bolts that attach it to the fuselage.

That’t the short form. It really only involves about 3 or 4 hours of work.

From: Brian Case

I have a mold for the lower fiberglass nose fairing for a 1-26B or C. It may also work Standard or A models as Well. It fits fair but is a bit tight around the tow hook.

From: Jim Phoenix (686)
I started a website on the restoration of SN686. I’m new to this and it’s kind of slow right now, so I’m going to work on speeding it up a bit and adding more detail and pictures.

It’s here: http://www.jimphoenix.com

Send me an email if you have suggestions, questions or would like me to add detail on something. Many thanks to everyone in the 1-26 Association for all the help and advice received so far, it’s been a great help!


Aircraft Maintenance

From: Bob Spielman

I talked to MARY BACKUS at Schweizer today and she said that Schweizer is out of the glider parts business and that Les Schweizer has all the remaining inventory of glider parts.

I called Les this evening and he has an 18 wheeler full of parts and that they are not sorted out yet. He was in on the design of the 1-35, some 1-26 mods, and some 2-33 mods. If you need a part you can email him at: and if you want some technical advise you call him at: 607-594-3329 after 7:00 pm in the evening EST. If you need a part it would be good to have the part number. Some of the sailplane manuals have a parts list - mine doesn't. He also has a lot of the tooling needed to produce parts but that equipment is not set up yet.

I need a 1-26 parts list and a 1-36 parts list if anyone knows where I can get them.

From: Jim Phoenix

Desser tire (http://www.desser.com/tailwheel.html), carries the 4.00x4 tire and tube that is used on the 1-26, $55.00 for both (09/13/05).

From: George Powell
Side View Top View
End View Open View
Battery Box For those of you who are interested, here are some pictures of the battery box I use in #029. Garry Dickson built it for me several years ago and it fits like a glove behind the seat. The design is a modified version of the rig Gary Swift describes below.

Gary's description: Each end of the battery rack had an aluminum fitting that allowed the rack to "hang" suspended between two lateral tubing members in the fuselage at the aft end of the seat pan. Each of the two end fittings had two mounting "hooks" at the top, that allowed the battery to hang between the fuselage members. One of the two hooks on each end fitting included a pip pin that fit through a hole in the hook and through a drilled hole in the fuselage member. Pretty secure.


From: Charles Shaw (196)
Atricle on SEALS FOR YOUR 1-26A-B-C, CANOPY, WHEEL BRAKE, AND RELEASE.

Just when you think that what you’ve written pretty well covers all the bases on this subject, someone points out a problem that you’ve failed to mention. So here goes another time.

James, here in Hobbs (ex #112, ex #032, now #243), was telling me about some noises he had in his current 1-26. As he described it, it was clearly very close to the pilots head, and we knew that he had already sealed the canopies and the joint between the two canopies --plus he is using plugs in the holes on each side where they join. Then it dawned on us, he hadn’t sealed the glass into the canopy frames. These can be amazingly noisy spots! Apparently the standard way of mating the glass to the canopy frames was to use a strip of ¾” electrical tape on the inside of the metal frame for the glass to contact. That’s fine; but by itself, it won’t do the job we want.

Here is what I have been doing with the 1-26’s I have owned:

Loosen the multitude of bolts around the edges considerably—enough to get a small gap all the way around. Using some (preferably) non-hardening glazing compound or putty, work little balls of the stuff into the gap with your thumb and fingers. (Kinda like packing an old wheel bearing by hand.) Be certain that the compound you are using will not attack either the glass or the paintwork and that it cleans up easily with just water and soft cloths. [Silicone bathtub stuff not allowed!] Re-tighten the bolts. Don’t over-tighten them because the glass must be free enough to shift slightly with changes in temperature. It is really surprising how much difference this can make to the amount of distracting noise that you must put up with every time you fly.

By the way, when James did this on #243, he found that the bolts were extremely loose—enough so that there were some very large openings that had been going unnoticed for a long time. How about your 1-26?

Happy Soaring,

Charles (196)

From: Charles Shaw (196)

Atricle on sealing the wing root with garage-door seal material in HTML or PDF format.

From: Jim Hard

Have obtained some ¾ inch wide h cross-section “#1 rubber channel” from Aircraft Spruce in Georgia, for sealing the wing root. It comes in 12 foot lengths so you order two. The cost was $24. My invoice says that the inventory number is # 591811. Haven’t tried it yet but it looks like it’ll work fine. Gave up on the garage door seals for the same reason as Kevin Ford; namely, the seals fell off during a long retrieve. We never did figure out what the right adhesive was for this application.



Trailers & Rigging

From: Tom McMullen

PDFWing Dolly

I thought that you might be interested in looking at a few pictures of a wing stand that I made for my 1-26E 559. It works well, although I must admit that it takes a little bit of lining up to get the spar to go in just right. It helps to be able to just pull the wing out of the trailer that you see in the background, rather than having to lift it up and over the side of a trailer. There is a note on the prints stating that it is a modification of a one man rig designed by Udo Rumph. The pictures should help those not accustomed to reading prints. When the prints are opened you need to go to view and rotate counterclockwise.

Tom McMullen, 559

From: Steve Vihlen


PDFCenter Fuselage Dolly PDFNose Dolly PDFWing Dollies PDFParts List & Plywood Cutou

These dollies have worked very well for our group. We have four 1-26s that share Jimbob Slocum's hangar out at his home/field, Hawks' Nest.

There's always a lot going on out there with airplanes passing through and we needed the ability to efficiently stack and store them out of the way, but to also be able to easily and quickly pull them out and assemble them. Jimbob had made the first set of dollies and when I got my new 1-26 home, I copied them and made a few improvements and drew up the plans as I thought there might be an interest in them

The real advantage is having them on castoring wheels. They will work better on a hard surface and one person can easily maneuver a pair of wings or the fuselage. The fuselage dolly uses a pole (conduit) which slides through the rear drag pin hole. This is a very stable platform and was great for supporting the fuselage while we worked on the cockpit of my ship. Another hole or two could be drilled in the upright supports to allow the fuselage to be held at different levels. Since we stack several 1-26s next to one another, we cut a hole in a couple of tennis balls and slid them onto the ends of the tube. That way, the rough end of the tube won't poke a hole in a wing that it's placed against. The fuselage dolly is removed before rigging by lifting the tail and having someone roll the dolly towards the tail and removing it. The dolly under the skid makes it easier to maneuver and helps in rigging the glider. The skid support has two 1 1/4" metal angles that are spaced just wide enough to capture the skid and prevent the fuselage from tipping. Cut the 2X4 left side support so the canopy won't lay on it when opened. Padding should be added to protect the areas that come in contact with the glider. I used carpet remnants to pad the skid dolly and half inch felt and pipe insulation in the wing dollies.

Also, since I wanted them to look nice and last a long time, I primed and painted them with semi-gloss house paint I had laying around. So when they get dirty, I can just hose 'em off.

Hope this helps in the enjoyment of your 1-26!

Steve Vihlen

From: Charles and Jo Shaw

A 1-26 Tow Bar

From: Lee Jarrard

I own a 1-34 and have built a dolly for disassembled winter storage of the fuselage. It could be resized and work equally well for a 1-26. It is based on the principle of the over-center motorcycle stand. I put it under the fuselage, put the tubes into the rear spar carry-thru holes then push down on the horizontal leg on the right side to lift the fuselage over-center onto the stand. This leaves the tail wheel about 8 inches off the floor. Pushing down on the tail lifts the main wheel and allows it to be rolled around on the stand. See attached pictures. I hope someone finds this useful.
Lee Jarrard (former #192 owner)

From: Bill Vickland

This is Bill's description of the fuselage dolly he made for SN 238.
PDFFuselage Dolly Design

From: Harry Senn

There are obviously things in this life that are not meant to be done alone, while others, such as flying a 1-26, were meant to be done strictly solo. Ordinarily three or more people assemble a 1-26; actually, it is more easily done with only two (with the aid of a sawed-off broomstick or other prop for one wingtip). Having done it essentially that way for the better part of 1000 times, on rare occasions my ground crew and I would have been happier if each had been free to do his own thing. This is the story of my answer to rigging and assembling a 1-26 all by myself.

From: Jim Phoenix

Jim Phoenix's web site page on trailers.

From: Tommy Thompson

My trailer has boat type grease fittings for the wheels. Some excess grease rotated off the inside of the the wheel and landed on the bottom outboard sections of the wings. On the advice of another 1-26’r ( Jeff Daye # 039) I bought an 8 ounce bottle of Ronsonol lighter fuel at Walmart for $1.40. It took the gease off even after it had been on the wings over four months. Most of it was dried on too. It did not harm the finish abit. It states on the bottle, “ Excllent for removing Grease, oil stains, tar & labels”.

I think others may benefit from this little tip that was passed on to me!

From: Bill Vickland

I have a set of plans for the Ranger Trailer.

From: Irwin Jousma

I have a set of plans for the first Ranger trailer Bob McNeill designed. I have made modifications to it to make it faster to load and unload (no tools required) and tow better. If your enquirers want an enclosed trailer mine is a good one. ( ask Bob Gravance or Ron Schwartz ).




Frequently (and not-so-frequently) Asked Questions

From: Pete Donath

Aircraft Windshield has the MOLD for the WINDSHIELD for the sports canopy...no frames, no turtledecks (aft canopy half). If somebody needs a replacement windshield, that's where I'd go.

Bill Vickland has the mold we had made from my aft canopy -- it can be used to make the shell for the aft canopy, but anybody who wants a sports canopy needs to fabricate frame & bulkheads, etc..

I'm suggesting this because the Globe Swift site does something similar: Jack Nagle stopped making sliding canopies for the Swift (an STC mod) long ago, but LP Aero Plastics (Bill Vickland likes them) still makes the plexiglass, just not the frame...oops, the Swift site ( www.saginawwings.com ) doesn't list Nagle's STC anymore, but they used to saying "LP doesn't have the parts, just the glass..." They might say that in the LP Aero Catalog.

Cheers,
Pete
#309

From: Rick Heis

I would like to set the record straight as to the charging of batteries. There is a lot of information out there on how to charge batteries. There are some basic principles that ALL chargeable batteries follow. I have over 35 years in the battery ‘business’ and hobby. I found a web site that gives you the basics and some details in other parts. This information is for any devise that has rechargeable batteries, i.e. cell phones, cordless phones, laptops, ham radio, aviation radios, electric model airplanes/cars/boats, etc.

A LOT has to do with type of battery, age of battery (not the manufacture date), the type charger, heat/cold, battery cycles, and several other factors. All these factors create the age of the battery. I have seen brand new batteries go from brand new condition to its all over and ready to buy another in one week because of the abuse of the battery.

A couple basic suggestions:

  1. Procure the best SMART charger for your devise that can trickle charge your battery.
  2. Take care of your batteries as if they were your first born. READ THE MANAFACTURE INSTRUCTIONS/DIRECTIONS.


GENERAL RULES OF THUMB.....

  • Smart chargers will not over charge, can condition the battery, and keep it in top form until you are ready for it. You can buy smart chargers for the particular battery (A22) or one charger that works on a lot of different batteries makes and types and sizes, from “aa” to deep cycle marine (boat) batteries. I prefer the chargers that can do multi tasking duties with all kinds and types of batteries.
  • ALL rechargeable batteries have cycles, you only get so many cycles with each battery life until its only about 25% useable which means you need a new one.

As just one example... if you charge your battery to full capacity and then use it until almost empty that is one cycle. OR if you charge your battery for 1 hour (only 33% say) charge and use it for X amount of time that is one cycle. OR if you use it and then place it back in the charger say three times a day that is 3 cycles...as a general rule of thumb...every time you place a devise in the charger that constitutes a complete battery cycle whether or not you used all the battery or charge it to full capacity. If the Ni Cad only has approximately 500 cycles (if you baby the battery) that may mean several years of weekend flying... IF you don’t abuse the battery. What is abuse... overcharging the battery (instead of 12 hours you charged it 24); leaving the battery in your car for the weekend with temps above 120 degrees (or cold below freezing); fast charging versus trickle charging; only using a small percentage of the battery life and then recharging are all abuses of the battery.

Check out this web site, there is some useful info on it. http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-14A.htm

I do not endorse these companies but here are a few battery companies that I purchase batteries from.

http://www.batteriesamerica.com/newpage71.htm
http://www.greenbatteries.com/bcalbachandr.html
http://www.wwassociates.com/Results.asp?Keywords=635&OEM=%25&Product=%25&Category=6&Manufacturer=43

From: Charles & Jo Shaw

My husband and I have owned #196 since 1963 - so we go back a bit. Charles did his own rendition of seat cushions which not only are very comfortable, but have been extremely satisfactory for over ten years. Some people complain 1-26s aren’t very comfortable. The truth of the matter is that most 1-26 CUSHIONS are the culprit.

His article of how to Whittle You Own Custon 1-26 Cushion descrides in more the detail process below:
Use layers of one-inch Styrofoam insulation material (metal-sheathed) shaped to fit the bottom of the glider by using a wood rasp and pocket knife. The top several layers need to extend forward (6 to 8 inches - or what’s comfortable)on each side of the stick to support your thighs. Cut and try until it fits both your seat and the glider’s. Build up on both side and back edges to make it curved. Use masking tape to hold layers together. When it fits well, tape together with duct tape and put a thin layer of dense upholstery foam on top - then cover with heavy-weight cotton fabric (or get your wife to).

From: Bill Tisdale

I have a great Excel spreadsheet for working out the weight and balance numbers, complete with station locations. You just need to weigh it as per the directions,then plug in the numbers. The first page of the spread sheet, I got from somewhere (must have been SN217). The second page is for our club ship SN446. If you plug in your empty weight and empty CG, then play with the pilot max/min weights to adjust CG to determine your min/max.

Good Luck

Weight and Balance Spreadsheet


From: Orion Kingman

Finding the Proper length for your antenna.

In this paper I will discus how to find the proper length for antennas, with glider operations in mind, using 123.30 MHz.

From: Harry Senn

Here’s some shots comparing a sport canopy to a normal canopy.


From: George Powell

Here’s a couple of shots of the sport canopy installed on "Snowflake" (SN 378).

Snowflake w/ sports canopy Side view of sports canopy

My guess is that the additional drag created by the open canopy (and my rugged features) diminishes the performance of my 1-26 by 15 to 20 per cent.

However, there are certain positive trade-offs. For example:

  • You can wear a leather helmet, goggles and Snoopy scarf to impress the girls.
  • By rolling your 1-26 on its back, flying inverted and gently rocking the wings, you can clean most of the trash out the cockpit.
  • You don’t need a radio on downwind. Just lean your head out the cockpit and shout important messages like: IT’S MILLER TIME!, or: LOOK OUT BELOW!, or: CALL 911!
  • After you land short, you can wave for help without climbing out of the cockpit.

I can use my sport canopy interchangeably on my 1-26A (#198) or 1-26B (#378). I have never tried it on a D or E model and am not sure whether it would fit.

From: Roger Felton

I have a "factory" sport canopy for my 1-26D #405. I’ve only flown with it a few times due to the fact I fly from a dirt strip (a moderate crosswind is required to keep from eating dust). I believe there is little or no performance loss if flown between minimum sink and best glide speed. I can say this after thermalling with a B model and a C model for more than an hour. I am sure there is some loss of performance at higher speeds, but nothing drastic. I only have had it up to about 70 mph so I can’t comment on anything over that, but you could generally say that the faster you fly- the more the performance loss. The wind noise is very moderate at the lower speeds- you can hear the radio and the audio vario very well. In fact at minimum sink to best glide speed I would say the wind noise is only slightly more than the regular canopy. As far as "draftiness" goes I would say it is about equal to the back seat of a poorly sealed 2-33. There is very little wind in your face- no goggles are needed unless you have to deal with dust on takeoff. An interesting note- you can "rumble" the tail by hanging your head or your arm over the side into the airflow. It does mess your hair up some- just like a convertable.

The sport canopy is in two parts that simply replace the forward canopy and the aft canopy. They mount in the same way and require no modification to the glider. The forward sport canopy is made of aluminum over steel tube with a plexiglass bubble. The plexiglass bubble is curved so that it’s trailing edge is parallel to the airflow. The aft sport canopy is made of fiberglass with formed aluminim bulkheads. It has a headrest incorporated into it’s forward bulkhead, and has a teardrop shaped fairing flowing off the rear of the headrest. Its kind of hard to describe but imagine the plexiglass bubble of the forward canopy forming the rounded end of a teardrop shape with the headrest/fairing of the aft canopy completing the "tail" portion of the teardrop, blending into the aft canopy.

I have seen another type of homebuilt sport canopy that was one piece, replacing just the forward canopy. It had a rather upright windscreen, made from a "wrap" of plexiglass. Supposedly this arrangement rumbles and buffets , due partly to the air turbulating off the lip of the windscreen and partly from the stock aft canopy acting like an airscoop. I would suppose that the performance of this arrangement isn’t very good, the penalty greatly increasing with airspeed.

From: Gary Swift

I owned 1-26A #198 for about 3 years in the early 1990s (sold it to active 1-26er George Powell). It came with a factory sport canopy which I used several times. One of the 1-26ers based at Hemet wanted a sport canopy for himself and talked "Steve" of Steve’s Soaring Service into making a female mold of my canopy so he could make a fiberglass duplicate for himself. If Steve still has the molds, he might be interested in making another canopy for you.

I didn’t fly with the canopy enough to compare performance with other 1-26ers, but DID notice a higher than normal sink rate and small constant buffet—probably caused by disturbed airstream hitting the vertical stabilizer. You would not want to use the sport canopy during a contest or other condition where you needed max performance. But it is great fun for just messing around! I even wore a leather flight helmet, goggles, and a white silk scarf for old tyme flying image.

For parts, try Tom Tappan. He bought ALL of Schweizer’s stock many years ago. For plans, try the Schweizer factory itself. I wrote to them when I owned #198 and bought a bunch of official 1-26 drawings to have on hand for reference.

From: George Powell

1-26 3 View Plans This is a large ( 406Kb ) file. Click the image to down load.